Unlock custom games: Your DIY 3D Printed Switch Dock Guide
So you like the Nintendo switch, but hopefully docking it is not… vanilla. Maybe the official dock is expensive, easy to scratch the screen, or just lacks personality. Input DIY 3D Printing: A cost-effective, unlimited customization solution. As a professional rapid prototyping manufacturer with industrial grade SLM 3D printers, Great Enables manufacturers to turn digital designs into perfect physical parts. In this guide, we will take you to build custom switch docks – both, creatively and with a virtuous score.
Why go to DIY? Beyond Cash
Nintendo’s docks retail for about $60, while DIY versions of electronics are priced under $20. But the real allowance?
- Custom: The dock is designed with gaming, ergonomic shapes or portable variants.
- Security repair: Early official dock scratch switch screen; printed docks can include soft fill.
- Ecology wins: Repurchase the old USB-C hub instead of buying new ones.
- Skills Building: Learn the basics of electronic assembly and 3D design.
exist GreatWe have seen engineers use the project to prototype shells for customers’ prototype shells – DIY facilitates innovation.
Toolkit: What do you need
1. 3D printed parts
- Filament selection:
- PLA: Easy to print (for beginners).
- PETG/Polycarbonate: Heat-resistant if the dock is closed (Crucial to thermal safety).
- Metal alloy: For ultra-heat resistant, thermally conductive docks (Greglight’s SLM printer Pair it here with Alsi10mg or titanium).
- Design source:
Download templates from Thingiverse or use your own model mixer/Fusion 360. Key Features:- Center slot of switch (1-2 mm clearance).
- Ventilation holes to prevent overheating.
- HDMI/USB port slot.
(Design tip: Embed wires to reduce embedded channels for debris. Greatlight’s ±0.05mm dimensional accuracy ensures the ports are fully aligned.)
2. electronic
| Element | Specification | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| USB-C Breakthrough Board | 15V/2.6A electric conveying certification | Power safety switch |
| HDMI adapter | 1080p, USB 3.0 compatible | Video output |
| USB 3.0 Center | At least 3 ports | Connect to the controller, store |
| 45W+ USB-C PD charger | Supports 15V/3A (for example, Anker/Spigen) | Safe power supply |
3. tool
- 3D printer (Great Nylon, carbon fiber or metal prints available on demand)
- Welding iron and heat pipes
- Multimeter (test voltage pre-assembly)
- Precision screwdriver set
Step by step drill
Step 1: Print and prepare the dock shell
- Slicer settings:
- Layer height: Smooth slot 0.15–0.2mm.
- Fill: 30% (rigid rectangle mode).
- Edge/raft: prevents warping.
- Post-processing: Sand seams, if painted, apply acrylic primer. Greglight’s Bead-Blasting Service creates ready-made matte effects.
Step 2: Wires and Electronics
⚠️ Key Safety Steps: Nintendo switches need Accurate Voltage. Uncertified chargers can brick Console.
- Wires soldered to the breakout board:
- Red: +5V
- Black: ground
- Blue/Green: Data cable (for USB hub)
- Isolate all joints With heat pipe. Use a multimeter to test connectivity.
Step 3: Assembly and Safety
- Use hot glue to secure the USB-C breakdown board in the rear slot of the dock.
- Thread the HDMI/USB cable via channel.
- Add silicone pads around the switch slots (to prevent scratches).
- Capture rear panel close–No screws are required if tolerances are tight (±0.1mm can be achieved SLM Printing).
Safety first: Avoid traps!
- Don’t skip the fuse: Add a 1A fuse between the power supply and the breakout board as surge protection.
- Thermal test: Run the dock + switch for 1 hour. The surface temperature should not exceed 40°C. Switch to PETG/Metal if overheated.
- Power delivery protocol: Use the USB-C PD tester ($8 online) to confirm that the output matches the Nintendo specifications (15V/2.6A).
(Pro Insight: Greglight’s metal 3D printing dissipates heat 70% faster than plastic, which is ideal for closed docks.)
Conclusion: Game, your way
Building a 3D printed switch dock democratizes technological creativity. Whether you’re an amateur who makes Pikachu-shaped docks or a stress-tested alloy prototype from an engineer, DIY can control you. Great Bridge the imagination and reality with industrial SLM 3D printers, providing heat-resistant metal parts, precise decoration and fast turnaround. Are you ready to customize the dock? Explore our prototype service to print parent parts at competitive prices without the need for a printer!
FAQ
Q1: Will the DIY dock damage my switch?
If you follow voltage specifications (15V/2.6A) and use a certified charger, it won’t. Add fill to prevent scratches.
Q2: How much have you saved?
- Electronics: $15
- DIY Printed Case: $5 (PLA)
- VS. Official Pier: $60–90. Total savings: $40–70.
Q3: Can I use any USB-C cable?
No! Cheap uncertified cable risk voltage spikes. Use a cable with a 56kΩ resistor (for example, Anker Powerline+).
Question 4: Do I have to print myself?
No. Serve Great Print dock housing in selected materials including metal with smooth post-treatment.
Q5: How long does the parts last?
PLA: 1 – 2 years (avoid heating). Greglight’s Alsi10mg alloy: Mechanical stability for more than 10 years.
Question 6: Can I resell these?
Legally, yes, but you will compete with patented Nintendo designs. Redesign your case!
Improve your build Great– The prototype fits perfectly. Quickly. Accurate. Trusted by global engineers. Get your quote now →
